Instead - and here comes the interesting bit - they will work with external suppliers whom they will provide with manufacturing solutions, so that the supplied parts are exactly to Porsche Design's requirements. In a sense, that is no news, as Porsche Design has always been just that: a designer of watches and not a manufacturer of them – which makes sense, given the stupendously large investment required to start producing high-quality timepieces in volume. What Porsche Design did was provide its own expertise in creating unique designs – and, of course, bring in the hugely valuable Porsche name – while a major watch manufacturer would take care of the rest. What is new, in my understanding, however, is that now they will not only provide the designs but also some manufacturing capabilities to their third party suppliers. This should primarily concern the making of cases, bracelets, and dials.
Alpina has had chronographs in their past, but they relied upon 3rd parties to supply the movements. This strategy is quite common and, while more expensive in the long run, doesn't require the upfront cost of developing a complicated in-house movement. For many small brands, off-the-shelf parts are a no-brainer, but Alpina has seen fit to spend over three years developing an in-house calibre, which debuts in the new flagship model for their mountain-loving Alpiner 4 collection.
>Model: Marineman Seahorse ref. S706M-09
>Would reviewer personally wear it: Yes
>Friend we'd recommend it to first: Japanese watch lover looking for something mechanical with a bit more of a European style but still a great value.
>Best characteristic of watch: Handsome looks with a nice assortment of parts of impressive details for the money.
>Worst characteristic of watch: Some forgivable, albeit noticeable, refinement issues. Might be too large for some tastes.
Note that what you see in the case cavity of the Jacob & Co. Astronomia is the entire JCEM01 manually-wound movement, and the planetary structure is literally sitting on the mainspring barrel. It is actually a motor barrel, and has been designed after some systems from historical American pocket watches. The four arms are all connected via a special differential system, and the system rotates around the dial fully once each 20 minutes. That is the first axis for the tourbillon.
With the Apple Watch being released in less than two month's time, and with other renowned companies like LG, Samsung and Garmin coming out with ever-more-refined and ever-less-compromised smartwatches, many considered Pebble to be out of the game. Their answer to those claims is the Pebble Time, which they like to refer to as the "awesome smartwatch, no compromises."
Like all other Turbine watches the Perrelet Turbine Skeleton has a jet engine style turbine that is weighted from the bottom and spins with the momentum of your wrist. The fast, fluid motion of the turbine creates a fun sense of visual interest on the watch. With the hands (and hour markers) highly visible and on top of the turbine dial rotor, this allows the watch to remain very legible. Its a fun concept that I think a lot of watch lovers can still get behind, even if you don't need more than one Turbine in your collection.
Omega Speedmaster '57 Caliber 9300 Reader's Contribution
Inside the Jacob & Co. Billionaire watch is the caliber JCAM09 manually-wound tourbillon movement with fully skeletonized bridges. Time is displayed via the blued hand with diamond hour markers (of course). Under 12 o'clock is a skeletonized mainspring barrel (72 hours of power reserve) and the 3Hz tourbillon sits over 6 o'clock. The entire movement is made up of 167 parts. I think it goes without saying that a timepiece like the Jacob & Co. Billionaire Watch needed to have a tourbillon - it just wouldn't be the same with out it.
A leader in avant-garde luxury and horology, Geneva-based Urwerk has always been at the forefront of melding technology and design with a unique ability to create meaningful interactions between a luxury watch and its wearer. In the past, the Urwerk EMC watch allowed users to immediately know the current accuracy of their mechanical wrist watch and then adjust it on the fly. The Urwerk UR-210 timepiece included the world's first mechanical activity tracker designed to tell you that more motion was needed to keep the spring-based mechanical movement wound. Looking into the future, Urwerk founders Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner examined their own personal journey and the trajectory of their products to determine that the only possible outcome for them was to create an intelligent system, steeped in the concept of time, obsessed with interaction, capable of making a meaningful impact on the life of the wearer.
In the video part of this watch review, I discuss how Ball's Amortiser system works and what it does. The idea is that during certain instances, if you anticipate that your watch will be subject to a lot of shock or vibration, you can manually lock the automatic rotor on the movement from moving. That's right, you can lock the rotor if you anticipate you are going to be in a "danger zone." The way this works is pretty simple. You first need to remove the watch and then twist the caseback in the direction indicated with your fingers. The propeller motif in relief on the caseback makes that simple. It is easy to tell when the caseback is in the locked or unlocked position.
The Fiona Krüger Celebration Skull also marks the first time a Fiona Krüger watch has had any luminant on it. Here, she took the opportunity to use white Superluminova, which gives you the ghostly outlines, with an almost neon sign-like look to it. I have to say I rather like the usage of it, and I am torn as to whether or not the hands would have been well-served by having some lume as well.