This version of the Citizen Perpetual Chrono AT is the reference AT4004-52E. It is 42mm wide and in a steel case with gold-toned accents. There are currently about eight versions of this watch. Each has a slightly different case color or style, and come on both bracelets and straps. The bracelet for this watch won't have the heft of a high-end Swiss bracelet, but is comfortable and attractive. I have often joked about strange looking bracelets from both Citizen and Seiko in the past - but stuff like this is conservative and comfortable in style and looks. The deployment clasp is clean and offers a nice push-button operation in a relatively flush clasp.
MTM designed the Falcon to be a large masculine watch. A piece like this has 44mm of width looking its largest. This is because of the very wide lug structure and actual cushion shape of the case. The case thankfully has a diver's style rotating bezel as well as a water resistance of 100 meters. I think it would have been cool to get the water resistance up to 200-300 meters, as well as make the light function work under water - that would have been cool. The crystal is anti-reflective (AR) coated sapphire.
What was special about the tourbillons in these Gyrotourbillon watches was that they had cylindrical balance wheels versus flat ones. Something Jaeger-LeCoultre carried over for example in the 2012 Duometre Spherotourbillon. Seeing the tourbillon move around like a gyroscope is really amazing. Even though it is just two axis points, the illusion is mesmerizing and it doesn't take an expert to realize a watch like this is very difficult to assemble and produce.
Tech Specs from Bulgari:
BVL 193, mechanical calibre automatically wound by a unidirectional oscillating weight
25.60mm X 3.70mm
Hours, minutes and seconds, semi-instant date window at 3 o’clock
Double barrel ensuring a 50-hour power reserve
4 Hz – 28,800 vph
Bridges snailed and adorned with Côtes de Genève motif, chamfered and polished bridge edges, circular-grained mainplate, satin-brushed wheels, polished pivots
Tone-on-tone diamond polished
Black lacquered, pink gold or rhodium facetted hour-markers
In-house manufactured case, screw-lock crown and screw-down case, water-resistant to 100m
Black alligator leather with steel or pink gold double-blade folding clasp
Porsche Design completes what I believe is a trilogy of "Heritage" watches celebrating the brand's history by recreating in a modern skin some of the brand's most iconic pieces. For 2012 it is the P'6540 that gets a new limited edition piece. Previous years saw the limited edition Porsche Design P'6520 and P'6530 watches. The P'6540 Heritage Chronograph evokes a design that originally came out 40 years ago. This is almost surprising given how modern the watch looked even then. The piece it references was called the Chronograph 1, and was the very first Porsche Design watch that coincided with brand's launch in 1972.
Calculating a 15% tip (I know, I'm cheap) - just the tip amount in this case:
The goal: Calculate 15% of .00.
Set the outer ring's "1.5" (for 15%) over the inner ring index ("1").
Find "2" (for .00) on the inner ring.
The outer ring shows "3" which is .00.
So a 15% tip for a tab is .00
According to Bulgari the new movement has some lovely finishing. I look forward to seeing their handy-work in the flesh. The Octo of course looks best matched with its fitted black alligator strap. With a complex case and simple dial, I think that this is overall a very satisfying timepiece that does justice to the brand's image. Price for the steel Octo is ,500 and ,300 in 18k pink gold.
That latter piece is the most famous white dialed Speedmaster, and never was anything more than a limited edition. Especially with its 2008 re-release in a series of 1,970 pieces. The Alaska Project Speedmaster has a white dial with black hands and markers. It also has a black colored tachymeter bezel insert. So while it was a white Speedmaster, it was not an all white Speedmaster.
I would love to know more history about how these androids were created, by whom, and how complicated they were at the time. Jaquet Droz was not the only one making them, but he probably created some of the more impressive machines. The idea was to wheel in a mechanical life-like puppet, impress a rich family, and have them order everything from pocket watches to elaborate table automata from him. This showmanship gained his company international prestige and acclaim. History seems to show that people even paid admission fees to see his automata in action.
The Reverso comes in a range of sizes and style. The largest of modern watches are the super-sized Reverso cases in Jaeger-LeCoultre's highest end models such as the Gyrotourbillon II and the Triptyque. The Grande Reverso is a step down from that. The more square Squadra is a handsome sporty option as well. Then there are smaller men's versions as well as a few sizes for the ladies. The Grande Reverso case is 32.15mm wide and about 52mm tall. That length of the case prevents it from looking small. I would not say that the piece wears large, but it certainly doesn't feel petite. The Reverso is a super classic look. Those three horizontal lines in the case above and below the dial really make it look distinctive, and the overall look and feel of the piece is ultra-classy. No where will a Reverso look out of place.
It has a mineral crystal on the back of the case, so you can admire the movement too.
One of my favorite parts of this watch is the strap. The Cartier "toile de voile" strap is made of a thick black nylon with a leather doubling interior. While the complete watch stands at just under 140 grams, Cartier's choice of a nylon strap results in a very comfortable and easy to wear timepiece.
Whether you like the design is up to you. There is a sort of immature coolness about the watch that I would have been all about as a kid and teenager. My more mature tastes see this as an attempt to build a budget Hublot or Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore. Don't forget that little bit of Concord C1 in the mix. Personally it is not to my taste, but the design doesn't offend notions of sound design. The case is steel and the black elements are IP (ion plating) coated. Japanese brands like to use IP a lot - and I wish they would move to PVD or DLC. Seiko and Casio for example have some of the best IP coatings around. Most of the time however, IP is a budget coating which isn't as good as PVD. Unless a watch is a few hundred bucks, you should really demand a better coating in most instances. At 50mm wide and 17.5mm thick, the watch is going to be not for the weak-wristed. Gevril goes so far as to suggest that the Corsaro is "bold and brawny." Sounds like the paper towels in my kitchen. Though you know I enjoy a big watch most of the time.
The formal name of this piece is the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Contemporain with Royal Blue dial. It features just one tourbillon (!) that is placed at a 25 degree angle. The tourbillon rotates once each 24 seconds unlike most that rotate once each 60 seconds. Greubel Forsey really seems to dislike one minute tourbillons.
The High-Performance Chronographs compete in price and style with Porsche Design, almost too much so. At first glance I could see many people confusing these for Porsche Design timepieces. They clearly aren’t exact analogs, but there is a lot of “Porsche Design flattery” going on here in the Chronograph’s execution. Inside the High Performance Chronographs are Swiss ETA 2894 automatic chronograph movements. You can see that Zegna uses decorated versions of the movement with custom Ermenegildo Zegna rotors. Attached to the High Performance Chronograph watches are the same rubber straps as on the Sea Diver, or black textile straps with red contrast stitching.
Unbeknownst to himself, Flavor Flav is a frequent topic of discussion and reference point in the watch lover community. His large, neck-worn timepieces offer a fantastic comparison point when attempting to phrase, in real-world terms, the hyperbolistic size of a large wrist watch. Without this cultural icon, watch lovers everywhere would be ill-equipped to comment on their love or disdain for wristwatch sizes. It was a blessing to have met this man in person, and it has allowed me to cross off a huge neck-worn-sized check off my life's bucket list.